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Featured Tour: Hanoi to Luang Prabang Overland

Monday, January 28th, 2013

Following on from a busy ATF in Vientiane last week, the Hanuman team was inspired to pick this 15-day overland trip through some of the most remote and beautiful parts of mainland Southeast Asia as the tour of the month.

Where the Mekong River meets the Nam Ou

Where the Mekong River meets the Nam Ou

One of Hanuman’s more adventurous itineraries, this trip offers an intriguing overland journey from Hanoi to Luang Prabang via some remote and beautiful regions. Starting out in historic Hanoi, we explore the lively Old Quarter of the city and some of the city’s most famous sights. We travel to majestic Halong Bay to experience a night aboard a traditional junk, perfect to soak up the stunning scenery. From here, we swing west into the striking mountain landscapes around Mai Chau, our base for some trekking amid the ricefields and villages of the White Thai minority. We then cross the mountainous border with Laos to explore the infamous Vieng Xai Caves, which served as a secret base for the Pathet Lao leadership during the war. Our journey continues through some remote parts of Laos to the enigmatic Plain of Jars. The culmination of this adventurous trip is the charming World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang, an atmospheric town of ancient wats and designer shops.

For more details on this off-the-beaten-track itinerary, see: http://www.hanuman.travel/Tours/Indochina/Vietnam_Laos_Revealed.html

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City of the Gods

Friday, June 1st, 2012

Undertake a historical pilgrimage to Angkor, home to the greatest concentration of architectural riches anywhere on earth.

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat, the Mother of All Temples

Angkor Wat is everywhere in Cambodia, the symbol of a nation and a source of national pride. It’s on the flag, it’s the national beer, it features in almost every hotel name in Siem Reap, gateway to the majestic temples. It’s a statement to the world that no matter how far the country has descended into darkness, let no-one forget that Cambodians built Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building.

Many visitors focus on the Mother of all Temples, but Angkor is more than its wat. Visitors are staggered by the sheer scale of Angkor, the incredible volume of temples and the diversity in design from one era to another. Angkor has the epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the Taj Mahal and the symbolism and symmetry of the pyramids, all rolled into one.

The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of a sophisticated empire (802-1432) that at its height stretched from the shores of Burma in the west to the South China Sea to the east. In the 12th century, Angkor boasted a population of one million when London could muster a mere 50,000 inhabitants. Holding sway over the empire were the deva-rajas or God Kings, representatives of the Hindu deities on earth.

The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is matched by only a few select spots on earth such as Macchu Picchu or the Pyramids. When it comes to sheer size, scale and symmetry, it is a vision that overwhelms the senses. Wrapped around its base are a series of monumental bas-reliefs depicting myths and legends, breathing life into the ancient sandstone walls. Stretching for almost one kilometre, they must be a candidate for the world’s longest piece of art.

Angkor Wat was the inspiration of Suryavarman II (1113-1152), one of Cambodia’s greatest kings, although his military acumen was not quite the equal of his architectural audacity. He launched a military campaign against the Dai Viet (Vietnamese), which was to spark a rivalry which has persisted for 800 years. Cambodia has ended up the loser on more than one occasion, the Cambodian village of Prey Nokor better known as Saigon these days.

It is hard to imagine any building bigger or more blessed than Angkor Wat, but in Angkor Thom the sum of the parts add up a greater whole. The gates are flanked by a monumental representation of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, 54 demons and 54 gods engaged in a titanic tug of war along the causeway.

At the heart of the ancient city is Bayon, the mesmerising and mind-bending state temple of Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). He was a conquering king and planned to promote a new religion, so what better way to do it than outdoing all your predecessors with the most surreal structure at Angkor, complete with 216 enigmatic faces keeping watch over the population?

Jayavarman VII is revered by Cambodians, a national icon and benevolent leader who built schools, hospitals and rest houses throughout the empire, and abolished the divisive caste system. But his obsession with temple construction left the state coffers drained and the nobility divided into Buddhist and Hindu. As the irrigation network began to choke and the Siamese pushed south to flee the rampaging Mongol armies, the Angkor empire imploded.

Nothing epitomises this decline better than iconic Ta Prohm, the original jungle temple of Angkor, left by conservationists as a testament to the force of nature. Ancient corridors groan under the weight of immense trees, the root systems serpentine, slowly and stealthily strangling the life out of the stones. It is an Indiana Jones fantasy where visitors can experience the awe of the early explorers.

Ta Prohm is a reminder that while empires rise and fall, the riotous power of nature marches on, oblivious to the dramas of human history. Left as it was ‘discovered’ by French explorer Henri Mouhout in 1860, man has first conquered nature to create, nature later conquering man to destroy.

Angkor briefly gained celebrity status in the 20th century when a string of luminaries such as Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Maughm and Jackie Kennedy cam to visit, but war and genocide wiped it from the map. However, it has rightfully reclaimed its place among the stellar attractions of Asia, a map of the cosmos writ in stone.

The ancient Khmers were the Romans of South-East Asia. They came, they saw, they conquered. They dominated the mainland, spreading the culture and civilisation of the Indian subcontinent throughout the region. They built long, straight highways criss-crossing their empire, linking the important cities of the day. They left temples to their Gods as far afield as Thailand and Laos, and successive empires claimed their old capitals as their own. If Europe owes a debt of gratitude to the Romans, so too must South-East Asia thank the Khmers.

This article, written by Lonely Planet author Nick Ray, originally appeared in the BBC History magazine in 2008.

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Reinventing the Low Season in Indochina

Friday, May 25th, 2012

The majority of visitors to Indochina prefer to travel during the high season which runs from November through March. Here are some insightful reasons to buck the trend and travel during low season which we prefer to call the ‘green’ season.

Angkor is certainly more crowded than it used to be. That is why Hanuman has carved a niche for itself as the company that approaches the temples differently, striving to avoid the crowds and to make the experience more personal, more intimate, more spiritual. Visitor numbers have risen tenfold in a decade from around 250,000 to around 2.5 million. However, the vast majority of these visitors are travelling during high season and the five months from November to March. Why not consider promoting Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam during green season? Here are a few highlights about the green season that could make the difference.

Rain clouds over Angkor Wat

Rain clouds over Angkor Wat... and not a tourist in sight.

Saving Money

In these difficult economic times, price matters. Until recently, there was little difference between high season and low season prices, so there was no real economic incentive to promote the region during green season. This has all changed with the advent of the global crisis and green season rates are now substantially lower than high season, particularly for some mid-range to high-end hotels and long-haul flights. A number of hotels in places such as Siem Reap, Luang Prabang and Hoi An are offering discounted rates of 30% to 50% off the high season price. This particularly applies to Myanmar, where high season rates at hotels are spiraling out of control, but low season rates remain affordable.

Avoiding crowds
Peak season is a busy time and it means the leading destinations (and by default the leading hotels) are very busy. Travel off-season and the numbers plummet. This means the sights are less crowded and the hotels less busy, adding up to a more relaxed and serene experience. In the past week, our team has been in both Luang Prabang and Siem Reap and it is very tranquil compared to the high season. It almost feels like a flashback to bygone days when Cambodia and Laos were truly off-the-beaten-path and only for the most adventurous travellers. This can be particularly important for the more wealthy and discerning traveller who really wants a different experience. It is that much harder to create with ten times the number of tourists in town. The best rooms are available, the best places calm and peaceful and the best restaurants not overcrowded. Coupled with price, this is quite an incentive.

The Weather
This is the big fear when it comes to green season travel. What will the weather be like? Well the honest answer is that we don’t know anymore. Global warming, El Nino, unexpected typhoons, many elements have combined to ensure the weather is not as predictable as it once was. The monsoon no longer arrives and departs to schedule.  Even when it rains, the showers are usually short and sharp, falling at the end of the day, some time between 5pm and 8pm. Yes, there may be some instant floods here and there, but this can be quite a spectacle in itself. So the weather should no longer be an obstacle for a low season visit, as it is too unpredictable these days. If we are choosing our favourite green season months, then June to August are probably the best. May is very hot in many areas and still arid, while September is traditionally the wettest, although in recent years Siem Reap has experienced major flooding in October. There’s never been a perfect season to travel to Vietnam, as there are microclimates up and down the country, so make that the perfect excuse to travel to Indochina when you want and not when everyone else does.

Spectacular Clouds
Well it’s linked to the weather, but the incredible clouds that appear during the wet season are something to behold. Like post-nuclear mushroom clouds, they tower in the sky and make for some spectacular sunsets. These are clouds the like of which you may never have seen. Similarly the storms are a force of nature and witnessing one roll in across the Mekong River from Luang Prabang to Can Tho is something visitors will never forget.

The Landscape
Travel in many parts of Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar from December to April and it will be dry and arid in the countryside as the rice has already been harvested. Travel in the green season and the landscape is a rich tapestry of emerald greens glistening in the sun. Not only are the paddy fields more alive, but the lakes, rivers and streams are flowing with water, making for faster and safer boat trips across the region. The moats and ponds at the temples of Angkor fill up, making for spectacular reflections for photographs. The moss and lichen that clings to many temples comes alive, adding a dramatic carpet of green or orange to many of the ancient stones.

So whether you are looking for better value, a more intimate experience without the crowds or a more spectacular landscape, the low season can deliver. Add these together and it might just be a better time to travel to the countries of the Mekong region.

HanumanAlaya is playing its part in promoting the green season with an incredible 50% all rooms from now through until 30 September 2012. For more details, visit http://www.hanumanalaya.com/.

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Temple-hunting in the jungle

Wednesday, May 23rd, 2012

One of the ruined brick towers at Prasat Preah Neak Buos

Andy Brouwer’s temple-hunting adventures take him into the remote northern jungle of Cambodia.

Re-discovering Angkor temples lost in the mists of time is an exciting hobby. Back in January 2003 I went in search of the fabled Prasat Preah Neak Buos, a temple built in the eighth century but because of its remote location, inaccessibility and the ever-present danger posed by landmines, it was one of the last remaining ancient Khmer temple sites to escape close scrutiny by archaeologists and tourists alike. It lies at the foot of a promontory of the Dangrek Mountain range that forms a natural border between Thailand and northern Cambodia.

Prasat Preah Neak Buos is an unusual monument. Its location demands that it faces south, and with various structures added during the reign of different Kings, it houses an eclectic cluster of temples rather than one large imposing structure. Early inscriptions call the location at the foot of the mountain, Canandagiri as well as Sivapadapurva. In later centuries, additional monuments were built at the same location, including brick temples with inscriptions facing east, whereas the original temple faced westwards. In the eleventh century, a new group of buildings were erected, with a large brick sanctuary holding centre stage and other smaller edifices and galleries amidst the rocky outcrops and boulders.

Located just a few kilometres east of the small town of Choam Khsan in the far north of the country’s Preah Vihear Province, I enlisted the help of a couple of locals, who’d visited the temple before but who stressed that landmines, lain indiscriminately by both sides during hostilities just five years before, were everywhere so we had to be careful. To get the temple we took motorbikes but with deep sand along the trail we spent most of our time walking the nine kilometers. We criss-crossed three deep and dry riverbeds, meandered along a cool and shady forest section and got stuck in ox-cart tracks before we arrived at a border police checkpoint, a kilometre from the foot of the mountain range. Surprised by our appearance, the police had not encountered foreigners before and took some persuading to let us continue our journey. They confirmed that there were no landmines inside the temple but that we must stick to the main trail for our own safety and waved us on our way. We soon abandoned our motos to continue on foot and stumbled upon a large laterite wall, which my guide confirmed was the southern entrance to Neak Buos. We had arrived. Nearby, a broken statue of a lion and a finely carved colonette lying in the grass was early confirmation that this was indeed the prize I was seeking.

The southern entrance is a mishmash of building styles. On one side is a well-defined stepped laterite wall, whilst the opposite side is a natural ridge with sandstone boulders. The main entrance staircase is overgrown, whilst brick and laterite structures lie in ruin on top of the terrace behind. At one of the outer brick buildings, a damaged lintel at the base of a sandstone doorframe was ferociously guarded by red ants, a common enemy throughout my exploration. Walking through the undergrowth along a path of sorts, we encountered another large entry building, this time constructed of brick with a distinctive sandstone double doorframe, before a laterite gopura signalled the beginning of the inner enclosure, where the largest collection of buildings were to be found. Negotiating our way through the two-metre high vegetation, we stumbled across a sandstone lintel with well-known Hindu motifs carved in minute detail, poking out of the earth and likely to have come from one of the five brick towers to our left, in the southwest corner of the enclosure. Thorn bushes made up much of the foliage we encountered and I silently cursed myself for not insisting that we brought with us some machetes to cut our way through. In the excitement of the morning, I’d forgotten something so fundamental. As the sharp thorns penetrated my shirt and trousers, I vowed not to make the same mistake again.

We headed for the largest of the towers in the center of the inner enclosure. Like so many of the more dramatic of Cambodia’s ancient temples, this was partly engulfed in the clutches of a strangler fig tree whose trunk sprouted skywards from the top of the tower. As we got closer we could hear the bats inside the tower signal our presence and the smell of their droppings was overpowering as I peered into the gloom of the sanctuary. The tower is of brick construction and has a stepped-pyramid or tapered appearance, opening out to the south. It was built later than most of the other structures and had survived in a much better condition. The main doorway, the three other doorways are false, boasted half a decorative lintel with an elephant and hermits in meditation, and a broken colonette. Lying closeby was the other half of the lintel where apsara dancers flying above elephants had their heads chipped away. No temple in Cambodia is safe from the temple thieves who seek to cash in on the trade in Angkorian material. I could find no other decoration on the tower as we inched our way through the brush to a large laterite gallery, with crude sandstone pillared windows, on the east side of the courtyard. Climbing to the top to gain a better view of our surroundings, we could just make out the pinnacle of at least eight towers but it emphasized exactly how wildly overgrown with vegetation the whole complex was. We rested for a while, listening to the quietness of the surrounding forest as our exertions had been tiring, with perspiration soaking my skin and clothes even though the overhead sun had not yet reached its’ hottest.

Our adventures continued on a more difficult route around the rear of the central brick tower, stepping gingerly through the thorn bushes and on top of discarded bricks and boulders. There was no path, we made it up as we went. A sandstone lotus flower, fallen from the summit of a tower and another half lintel protruding from the ground led us onto another two ruined brick towers. Both opened out to the east and both had inscriptions on their sandstone doorframes in Pali, an old Khmer script and in Sanskrit. Closeby was the original temple, known as Sivapadapurva, built in the eighth century and with its main doorway opening to the west. The base of the tower was laterite, whilst the top half was made of brick and housed another Sanskrit inscription, with some modern graffiti superimposed, as well as a perfectly rounded colonette and an intricate piece of carving. A few bats had also made their home in the upper reaches of its sealed tower. Another brick tower, opening out in a southern direction, stood a few metres away.

From atop the gallery we had spied another set of structures, lying in the southeast section of the enclosure and that’s where we headed next. We were more than two hours into our exploration of the temple complex and whilst we hadn’t uncovered anything as remarkable as the main temples of Angkor, the thrill of exploring a virgin site was no less palpable. Reaching the southeast corner, next to the surrounding laterite wall were two very ruined brick buildings. In front of the first was a large decorative lintel with gods, hermits and dancing figures carved in intricate detail. Scrambling around in the undergrowth nearby, we found more finely-carved stonework. At this point the vegetation was almost impenetrable and I just managed to reach two more small sandstone towers with carvings of demon faces, both in situ and lying in the undergrowth. Balancing precariously on fallen blocks of stone, I decided safety was the best option and that we’d seen as many of the structures as we could within the main enclosure. We now headed for the large brick gopura with the double sandstone doorframe we’d seen on our earlier arrival. A row of rectangular sandstone posts preceded the doorframe where I noticed a date carved on the stone, 8.2.1904, most likely from one of the French archaeologists that documented this and many of Cambodia’s ancient temples in the early part of the twentieth century.

After a final inspection of the outer southern entrance, we ended our visit to Neak Buos. The thick undergrowth, the vicious ants and the incredibly hot and muggy conditions had made it a hard slog for more than three hours but the thrill of uncovering a major temple complex that few, if any, had visited for many decades, made it all worthwhile. We called in at the police station to rest, eat our lunch and to mend two punctures on one of the motos. If you are seeking to explore a temple that doesn’t conform to the more popular versions you find at Angkor and you aren’t afraid of a fair amount of discomfort then Prasat Preah Neak Buos may be just what you’re looking for. If you do pay a visit, make sure you heed seriously the warnings about landmines and are accompanied by a knowledgeable local.

If visiting a remote temple grabs your imagination, Hanuman can look after you in comfort with our Temple Safaris to the large temple complexes of Koh Ker, Preah Khan of Kompong Svay and Banteay Chhmar. Contact us for more details.

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Hanuman launches its Myanmar Collection

Thursday, April 12th, 2012

The Hanuman team is pleased to announce that Myanmar has been launched on the Hanuman website at http://www.hanuman.travel/Myanmar/Myanmar.html

The Myanmar welcome page on www.hanuman.travel

Hanuman plans to bring its own blend of innovation and originality to journeys in Myanmar now that the country is itself travelling the road to political reform. Many overseas tour operators are experiencing availability, booking and confirmation problems in Myanmar with the sudden surge in visitors in the past 12 months.  As a new operator in the destination, we have more flexibility on who we work with and can source rooms from a range of local DMCs rather than being tied to any one operator and we believe this may give us a competitive advantage in time.

As you know, Hanuman prides itself on its approach to popular sights like the temples of Angkor and its ability to ensure an enriched experience by avoiding the crowds. Thanks to a combination of carefully crafted itineraries and well-trained tour guides, we are able to avoid the major crowds at the most important temples and help make a more memorable experience. We have taken this same approach to our itineraries in Myanmar and, in particular, to the temples of Bagan and the old capitals around Mandalay. Bagan is one of the most breathtaking sights in Southeast Asia, but it is also getting rather crowded with the sudden boom in tourist numbers. Many of the Bagan guides do not always consider careful timings for the temples and this can mean sharing the most popular payas with busloads of other visitors. We prefer to customize an itinerary that goes to the right temples at the right time and avoids the crowds, particularly at popular times such as sunset. Similarly around Mandalay, all too many groups travel from ancient capital to ancient capital in sequence like a merry-go-round. We do not favour this one-size-fits-all  and try and ensure a creative approach to avoid the crowds.

Back to the Hanuman website, the new Myanmar section includes the same features as our other existing destinations of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. The drop down menu includes the same combination of Journeys, Destinations, Hotels, Experiences and Responsible Tourism. It is possible to search via the drop down menu or to visit the Myanmar landing page and browse from there. Here is what we currently have on the Myanmar section of the site:

Journeys (http://www.hanuman.travel/Tours/Myanmar/Myanmar.html): Top 10 Journeys for Myanmar and Myanmar/Cambodia or Myanmar/Laos combinations.

Destinations (http://www.hanuman.travel/Destination_Guides/Myanmar/Myanmar.html): Destination Guides to Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, Around Myanmar and Country Info.

Hotels (http://www.hanuman.travel/Hotels/Myanmar/Myanmar.html): Recommended Hotels in Myanmar, to be expanded in the coming weeks.

Experiences (http://www.hanuman.travel/Unique_Experiences/unique_experiences_myanmar.html): Top 10 Myanmar Experiences

Responsible Tourism (http://www.hanuman.travel/Responsible_Tourism/Myanmar/Myanmar.html): Top 10 Responsible Tourism initiatives in Myanmar

Hnit Thit Ku Mingalabar or Happy Burmese New Year 2555.

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Luxury Cruising on Halong Bay

Friday, April 6th, 2012

Today there are some exceptional vessels plying the waters of the unique world heritage site that is Halong Bay, but it can be difficult to keep up with the various new boats with so many launches each year. The Hanuman team looks at the leading cruise operators and the best of their boats.

Bhaya Classic in Halong Bay

Hanuman prefers to promote 3-day, 2-night stays on the bay and many of the leading luxury cruises now offer this option. This is a great way to get off the cruise tourist trail and explore some beautiful and less-visited areas within this vast world heritage site. Some cruises now venture into beautiful Bai Tu Long Bay, every bit the equal of Halong Bay, only without all the other boats. And some boats are now heading southeast to Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island, another stunning area of karsts with some sandy bays. While the majority of people still opt for 2-day, 1-night cruises, the drawback is that most of the cruise companies follow the same itineraries to the same places at the same time. This can really ruin the atmosphere of such a magical place and ensures you are queuing to climb Titop Mountain or to explore Hang Sung Sot during busy times of year.

Au Co Cruise

Part of the Bhaya Cruise family, the Au Co Cruise, launched in April 2012, is a modern cruise boat that plies the waters of Halong Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay, near Cat Ba Island.  Larger than the average boat around Halong Bay, this allows for a greater sense of space. The deluxe cabins are all 20 sq metres and the suites offer a generous 40 sq m. We have yet to experience the luxury of this new boat, but we are drawn to the idea of 3-day, 2-night cruises on the water to avoid the crowds and see more of the outstanding beauty of this incredible area. The chance to include less-visited Lan Ha Bay and the stunning karst formations of Bai Tu Long Bay fits perfectly with the Hanuman philosophy of avoiding the crowds and spending more time in such a signature spot.

The newest luxury boat on the bay, the Au Co Cruise

Bhaya Cruise

Launched in 2007, Bhaya Cruise has quickly established a name for itself as a pioneer in luxury vessels. Hanuman Travel chartered the original Bhaya Classic for the Top Gear Vietnam Special, filmed in October 2008, so we have long been familiar with the stylish service on these boats. Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May had an enjoyable night onboard. There are four Bhaya Classic boats offering 15 or 20 cabin configurations and these work well for groups. The Bhaya Legend range includes smaller vessels for a more intimate and tailor-made exploration of Halong Bay or nearby Bai Tu Long Bay. There are four boats with a range of cabins from one to four. These are perfect for honeymoons, family groups or close friends.

Cruise Halong

The Halong Ginger was the one of the first of the more luxurious junks to explore the bay. It has since been joined by sister boats the Halong Jasmine and the Halong Violet. All are attractive vessels offering distinctive configurations. The original Ginger has 10 cabins, the Jasmine is the largest boat with 24 cabins and the more intimate Violet has just 6 cabins. The Hanuman team would recommend the Jasmine for larger groups or events and the Violet for smaller groups seeking a higher level of comfort, as the majority of cabins are suites. No longer the smartest cruises on the water, they still offer a very impressive product. 3-day, 2-night cruises are available for those seeking to escape the crowds.

Halong Jasmine amid the karsts

Emeraude Classic Cruise

The first and only replica paddle steamer to cruise the waters of Halong Bay, Emeraude Classic Cruise remains a popular choice for European tourists. The impressive vessel includes 34 superior and deluxe cabins, plus three signature suites. In keeping with the large boat, there is lots of deck space for passengers where activities such as Tai Chi are offered. The main drawback to the Emeraude experience is the size of the superior and deluxe cabins, which are fairly small and standard when compared with some of the newer luxury junks cruising the bay.

Indochina Junk

One of our favourite companies operating around Halong Bay, Indochina Junk provide a boutique boat experience. Their diverse fleet of junks include four romantic Princess boats with just one cabin for honeymooners or those seeking seclusion. The Prince line of boats offers slightly more space for family or close friends with a mix of two to four cabins. The original Indochina Junk boats were the Lagoon Explorers and these were the first craft to explore the bay with real sails. These four-cabin boats are still pushing the boundaries of exploration around Bai Tu Long Bay with a strong wind behind them and have four cabins. Finishing off the fleet are the Dragon boats. The five-cabin Red Dragon boats are ideal for a small group of 8-10 people, while the larger Dragon’s Pearl boats offer 11 cabins and can be chartered for larger groups. Many of the Indochina Junk itineraries are 3-day, 2-night adventures which allows guests to see that much more of the bay. Indochina Junk also come highly recommended thanks to their environmentally-friendly credentials and their affordable tariffs.

Indochina Sails

One of the longest running luxury operators on Halong Bay, the Indochina Sails fleet now comprises of six boats with overnight cabins. The original fleet of Indochina Sails I, II and III, all with 14 or 15 cabins, have now been supplemented by the smaller Valentine boats and more luxurious Indochina Premium. The original Valentine has just five cabins and is an intimate option for small groups or extended families. The newer Valentine Premium has just two cabins so offers exclusivity for two couples or a small family. The newest Indochina Premium is one of the most impressive boats on the water, with spacious cabins, private balconies and bathrooms that are almost the same size as three-star cabins. Our Hanuman team stayed on it as recently as Spring 2012 and it was an extremely comfortable experience. The only negative from the trip was that all the Indochina Sails boats follow each other around the bay in convoy and that means large crowds at every stop along the way.

Indochina Sails

Paradise Cruises

One of the newer cruise companies operating on Halong Bay, Paradise also offers some of the smarter boats currently available. The Luxury range includes four boats with 17 cabins, which work well for high-end groups wishing to explore the bay or for larger MICE groups that need a uniformity of boats and cabin configurations. The Privilege brand of boats are much smaller with just three cabins for a maximum of six guests. These are good option for larger families or small groups of friends or relatives travelling together. The newest Peak boat is an all suite craft and offers possibly the most luxurious option for smaller groups, with a total of eight cabins.

The Hanuman Overview

So how to navigate these complicated waters and choose the right boat for the right client? Our solution is not to recommend any one company but to recommend specific boats if they are available. Here are some of our main recommendations below:

Honeymooners and Anniversaries: Bhaya Legend I, Indochina Junk Princess and Prince

Families or Friends seeking privacy: Indochina Junk Prince or Lagoon Explorer, Paradise Privilege, Bhaya Legend

Couples or small groups joining a larger cruise: Indochina Sails Premium, Bhaya Classic, Au Co Cruise, Paradise Cruise Luxury, Cruise Halong Jasmine

Small Groups: Indochina Junk Lagoon Explorer and Red Dragon, Bhaya Legend IV, Indochina Sails Valentine Premium, Cruise Halong Violet

Medium Groups: Indochina Sails I, II and III, Indochina Junk Dragon’s Pearl, Cruise Halong Ginger

Big Groups: Indochina Sails Premium, Bhaya Classic, Au Co Cruise, Paradise Cruise Luxury, Emeraude Classic Cruise, Cruise Halong Jasmine

MICE Events: Indochina Sails Premium, Bhaya Classic, Au Co Cruise, Paradise Cruise Luxury, Emeraude Classic Cruise, Cruise Halong Jasmine

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Unique Safaris

Thursday, March 22nd, 2012

We take a quick look at Hanuman’s signature Temple Safari at the ancient temple complex of Koh Ker, just to give you a taste of our very own unique temple experiences. Temple Safari was originally conceived to take visitors off-the-beaten-path to encounter the magnificent jungle temples beyond Angkor, far from the madding crowds.

Temple Safari delivers the Angkor experience of old, timeless temples with not a visitor in sight. Witness the most atmospheric temple ruins on earth, forgotten in the forests for almost a millennia. See sunrise inching over the horizon, the temple ruins lost amid the jungle canopy, the modern world forgotten for a moment in time. Temple Safari is an original Hanuman creation and although it may sometimes be copied, it is never rivalled, as we are the only company with many years of experience in this sort of trip.

Koh Ker is a popular option as it includes a visit to the jungle temple of Beng Mealea en route. Koh Ker was a 10th century rival capital to Angkor and is home to a prolific array of temples from this era. The Mayan-esque step pyramid of Prasat Thom is most impressive, but other smaller temples are also striking, including Prasat Bram with its suffocating strangler figs.

If Temple Safari is for you, please contact our team at Hanuman for more details.

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Along the West Bank

Monday, November 21st, 2011

Making rice Ambok on the west bank

Enjoying a personal, intimate experience with local people can make your visit so much more rewarding. Try our new West Bank of the Mekong ride, either as a motorcycle passenger or by bicycle, and you can take home long-lasting memories of such encounters.

Few tourists ever cross the Mekong River to its west bank, opposite the town of Kratie in northeast Cambodia. So that’s exactly why we take you on a trip that will give you a host of rural countryside experiences that take you closer to the real Cambodia and enhance your understanding of their way of life like few other encounters can. I recently took the opportunity to find out more about the lifestyles of the locals with my motorbike guide Sithy, who speaks fabulous English and whose family live on the west bank of the river. So he was the perfect man to introduce me to a host of activities from rice-harvesting and planting, to tobacco production, prahok and noodle-making and palm sugar collection, as well as enjoying some of the numerous fruits his own family grow in the shade of their wooden stilt home. We stopped many times to interact with the locals, and had a fun time helping one family group make the special rice delicacy of Ambok. The pagodas along the west bank have many folklore stories to tell including the princess and the crocodile tale and Sithy is well-versed in all of them, as are the friendly monks we met along the way. Waves and shouts of hello are commonplace as we headed north, where if we had time we could’ve stopped for a swim in the Mekong itself. Instead we crossed the river on a local ferry and called into the Turtle Conservation Center at Wat Sarsar Mouy Rouy pagoda, where the Cantor’s softshell turtles are being cared for and released back into their natural habitat. Further south at Kampi, the rare Irrawaddy Dolphins are found in great numbers for such an endangered species and if time permits, a late afternoon boat ride to see them at play would round off a memorable day. On my visit however, we had spent so much time getting our hands dirty with the rural activities on the west bank, we just about made it back to Kratie in time to see one of the stunning sunsets that the town is renowned for. The West Bank of the Mekong trip can also be completed by bicycle though the visit to the Turtle Center and Kampi would not be possible in the time allowed.

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Unique luxury

Wednesday, November 16th, 2011

Song Saa Private Island

The Song Saa Private Island, opening up on two tiny islands off the southwestern coast of Cambodia, will bring a level of unique luxury to the region, and will be open for business early in the new year, after a soft opening in late December.

With just 40 days until their soft opening on December 23rd, construction is in the final stages.  Landscaping is taking shape all over the island, with the Vista Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge over the water nearing completion.  This is just one of the many impressive locations on Song Saa.  While each villa does have its own swimming pool, the resort also has a main pool.  It’s going to be a spectacular work of art with views of the sunrise, moonrise and sunset, all while looking over the infinity edge out into the Gulf of Thailand.  It will be unmatched in Southeast Asia.

The resort will feature 27 luxury overwater, rainforest and beach villas built with sustainable materials and with the deepest respect for the natural environment.

The Song Saa Sanctuary spa and wellness centre is suspended among the rainforest. It will also comprise a number of private treatment rooms along the water’s edge. They have brought the spa specialists, ila, on board to design the concept around the Song Saa Sanctuary.  ila is the brand responsible for the Four Seasons spas.

The food concepts that the Song Saa team are creating continue to excite the senses.  The first photo shoot of the various dishes on offer has taken place.  These pictures are for the room service cook book, which is a new concept we are very proud of.  As opposed to a traditional menu for room service, we will have a book that allows guests to read the recipes, methods and stories behind these exciting Khmer fusion offerings.  Best of all, guests can take the book away as a gift when they leave, so they can relive their time on Song Saa by recreating the beautiful dishes they enjoyed!

Song Saa have a touch of disappointing news regarding the private plane option to reach the islands.  The operator has not been able to deliver the plane to them in time for the soft opening and potentially for the resort opening on February 13th, 2012.

However, this can be overcome by the new flights to Sihanoukville from Siem Reap by Cambodia Angkor Air, which are expected to open up all kinds of new opportunities for the coast.   Although these flights are only three times a week, it will still make a world of difference.  Song Saa will provide free private car transfers from Sihanoukville Airport to their boat where guests will be taken directly to the resort. Alternatively, car journeys from Phnom Penh can be easily arranged.

If you want to step into a world of luxury at Song Saa, please contact us direct at Hanuman.

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Cambodia Update

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011

Flooding in Cambodia

Across Cambodia, high water levels are now beginning to recede, though large areas of the countryside will continue to suffer the severe flooding problems of the last few weeks which has affected so many families in low-lying regions. Over 1.2 million people have had their lives disrupted by the flooding. Phnom Penh city escaped the problems seen elsewhere, such as in Siem Reap, where the old market areas and the riverside were underwater on numerous occasions, though this has now cleared and tidying up is underway. The temples at Angkor and access to the popular floating floating villages is no longer a cause for concern either. In Kompong Thom province, the worst hit, the temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk was cut off for a time but the access road has now re-opened and the temples are open for business once again.

In other news the Apsara Authority, which controls the Angkor temples at Siem Reap, have announced that they will begin limited access to Phnom Bakheng from the end of  this month. 300 people at a time has been mentioned but no firm plans on how this will be controlled and monitored have yet been announced. Phnom Bakheng is the traditional sunset spot overlooking both Angkor Wat and the Western Baray but in the past few years has been overrun with hordes of tourists at sunset time. There were real concerns that the size of the crowds was causing damage to the temple, hence the number restrictions being  mentioned.

Nicknamed the world’s largest jigsaw puzzle, the Baphuon is now open again to visitors. Apsara have also announced new access restrictions for the temple. No children under 12 are allowed inside the temple and mini-skirts and shorts are also not allowed.

The increasingly popular Elephant Valley Project in northeast Mondulkiri is raising its profile as a great example of a responsible tourism project that ticks all the boxes and much more. Hanuman are pleased to be one of the project’s biggest supporters and we encourage any of our guests who are heading into the northeast region, to consider spending a day or two with the elephants at EVP. But please note, the elephants and staff have weekends off. Read more about the project at http://www.hanuman.travel/Responsible_Tourism/Cambodia/Elephant_Valley_Project.html.

Finally, Friends-International have just kicked-off a new promotional campaign, Children are not Tourist Attractions, opposing orphanage tourism that is rife in Cambodia. You can find out more about this worthwhile campaign at http://www.thinkchildsafe.org/thinkbeforevisiting/.

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